Australia! What a breath of literal and metaphorical fresh air. After a
seemingly inexplicable (but nonetheless legit) bout of stress
in the Fall spurring on intense pangs of homesickness, Australia was
exactly the douse of Western culture we needed. Cue the entertaining English, seriously breath-taking vistas,
endless open-road and the notable infatuation with bacon, we felt right
at home--all whiffs of former anxiety flying out the window to the open
sea!
So as per our very loosely made plan, we flew in and out of
Sydney, and beyond that all we wanted to do was drive as far North as our
little van would take us in the next three weeks (which turned out to be way less than we had first envisioned--We seriously underestimated the size of Australia!). With Tyler's ambidextrous driving skills
raging, we put the pedal to metal in our new rolling home. As we headed
out of Sydney we kept thinking 'Huh, this is kinda like Canada'-- Big
open roads carved out of huge rocks, a river or lake around every
corner...but then we hit the coast, and WOW! Australia! Because it was
all pretty sweet-as, let me give you the highlights...
The Aussies: Ahhhhh the Aussies; the
endearing, amazingly friendly, mildly racist, ultra spirited,
unapologetic Aussies. Can't say enough great things about them. If they weren't friendly (which they are), they were at the very least
entertaining--Between the
bikies, bogans and the sweet ladies running the Driver-Revivers (free
coffee stands on the highway to wake-up the roadtrippers--Genius)
there was always someone to chat with. Always up for a chat, to the
point where we had to wonder if anyone had anywhere to be. Now, Canadians
have a reputation for being friendly, but Aussies take having a yarn to a
whole new level. Asking an idol question at the gas station would often
turn into a full-on round table debate over the merits of block ice vs
cubes, and leave Tyler in the parking lot wondering what was going on
and where I've been. Oh, and if the birds didn't wake you up at the
crackers, the Aussies would. The first morning we woke up in a beach
parking lot I was super confused to find people everywhere exercising at
5:30am..jeeeeze. I guess that's how
they manage all those steak pies!
The
Van: We picked up our sweet little Mystery Machine on Day One and reluctantly gave her back on Day 22 of our adventure. To say we adored her was an understatement; the van life and all its close, cozy campiness is certainly for us. Upon making her acquaintance we quickly dubbed
her
Sheila (for all our 65+ Aussie ladies at the Bowling Club) and Sheils
for short (...we had recently binge watched Shameless and who can't help but love
looney-tooney Shiels?!). After spending last Christmas in India-- which lacked a certain je ne sais quoi in the cheerful department, dammit, we were hellbent on feeling the spirit this year. Once the stockings were hung with care,
twinkle lights were strewn and the interior (and inevitably our faces) was covered in glitter, we truly felt that home is where the heart is. And what's Christmas without a hiccup er two? Sooo when you rent a van with 500,000Km one could expect a
breakdown. Do you really need a clutch tho? With Australia's
obsession with roundabouts, one might say yes. A big shout-out to Carl
the Mechanic for fixing us up during Christmas, and for his
hospitality!...When your van is broken, so is your home. (Again, those
Aussies!)
The Camping: When we
were looking for a hot shower we booked into a legit campground.
Otherwise, we spent some nights parked in beach-side parking lots
(always with the risk of being moved along in the night, but waking up
to the most beautiful scenes was worth it). A major thumbs up for Australia is
that most beach parking lots have a shower and
toilets which are cleaned daily and always fully stocked with toilet
paper (it's
the small things you miss after living in Asia). The public facilities
are so good that we ended up parked in a day-park for three days over
New
Years, not even bothering to pretend we were packing up when it got
dark. We spent another night at a beautiful and peaceful fairground in
the hills. We spent
another night at the Bowls Club parking lot-- Much like the Legions in
Canada, there
seemed to be a Bowls Club in every small town. Bowls Clubs are lawn
bowling
clubs with a restaurant, pokies (VLTs) and a bar. Essentially, the Legion with one catch--You can pay to park and camp in the parking lot.
Yupp, no need to drink and drive when you can stay four nights for the
mere cost of $5--Although we only camped out one night, we were totally
sold!
|
Not a bad view in the morning! |
The Barbecues: You cannot go to Australia
without noticing and partaking in a sizzle or two. 'When in Rome' doesn't even touch how wholeheartedly we
entered into the scene. Breakfast, lunch and dinner happened on either a
public flattop or our own little grill out the back of the van, either
way, we were up for a barbie. Not only are the bbq's awesome and free,
they seem to attract company. Everyone wants to know where ya from, what
ya doing, and what ya grilling. We got the best travel tips, local
secrets and advice just hanging around the bbq. Oh, and the meat in
Australia is certainly a thing....And damn it's tasty! To the point where we were driving by a field of cows and I involuntarily uttered 'mmmmmm'. (I know, vegans shield your eyes.) But that's not
the only thing we grilled--To some suspicious eyes, the french toast,
fajitas, and stir-frys were perhaps not the traditional Aussie cook-out, but
whatevvvvs.
|
Whether we were in a park or on the streets of Sydney, there was always a need to sizzle! |
The Animals: Australia is home to some
pretty weird and wild stuff. Being suckers for a viral video we had seen
and heard cautionary tales of the deadly spiders, snakes, sharks,
crocodiles, and jellyfish lurking around every corner. After having seen a couple
snakes we were much more interested in the cute stuff-- Koala and
Kangaroo hunting was high on our agenda. After driving for two weeks and
watching kangaroos casually chill under trees, we had seen them do little else but laze and lick their forearms (a great trick to cool
down). We were dying to see a kangaroo actually bounce. On our way to
Sydney for our final days we drove past a troop of kangaroos just
chilling and decided enough was enough-- we were out to have a closer look. To our
surprise kangaroos are the most chilled animals ever ---No wonder we hadn't
seen them bouncing beforehand. Some 'roos were curious, some were super
friendly, and some could careless that we were there. All had a
doe-eyed, semi-stunned sweetness about them. We pet them, shook their
paws and got our fill of these truly unique animals moving about. So
cute when the little ones bounded on by....a bit intimidating when the
papa 'roos made their move. Nonetheless, all adorable animals!
In search of a bona fide koala sighting, we
spent a few mornings checking out Noosa National Park hoping to see a
koala in the wild. Although we enjoyed some great nature walks which culminated in a beauty of a beach, koalas were just not happening. So we headed to Daisy Hill Koala Centre where there were a
couple koalas in their interpretive centre, and perhaps in the huge eucalyptus forest...but who the hell
knows!? If
they were out there, they weren't revealing themselves. The koalas in the centre were
hilariously docile (to the point where we initially thought we were looking at a stuffed animal). Total stoner marsupials.
Finally, the
birds. The bloody birds. There is really no need for an alarm clock
anywhere in Australia. Between the kookaburra cackling and the
rainbow parrots squawking, sleeping in beyond sparrow's fart was nearly impossible.
The
Towns&Beaches: As mentioned before, we had planned on covering a
lot more ground in Australia, but we didn't for two main reasons;
Australia is a mammoth, and we would get way too comfortable in one place.
The beaches and the seaside towns were a perfect recipe for a holiday. I
was not prepared for the vastness of
the beaches. At every turn there was an equally stunning stretch of beach
with endless sand, beautiful water and virtually no people. Despite the
shark, jellyfish, current warnings, we took every opportunity we could
to check out a beach--which was not hard. Most of the beaches we stopped
at was edging or smack dab in the middle of a great little beachside
town. Byron Bay, Numbucca Heads, Rainbow Beach, Kingscliffe, Booreen
Point, Lennox Head, Nelson Bay, Nimbin (Albeit, not a beach-side town,
but this little metropolis has is its own unique allurements)
The
Cities: As overnight parking or 'camping' as we'd like to refer to it
was nearly impossible in the cities, we really only hit up Sydney and
Brisbane. Brisbane is a beautiful city, but the true highlight was catching up with our friends Jo and Ahmed. Being with Jo, our first Aussie friend whom we met in KL in her home country was a treat. Jo and Ahmed were full of travel advice, new Aussie expressions and answers to all our burning Aussie questions- 'If a sanger is a sandwich, what do you call a sausage?! and 'What is Macca's?'. It was great to spent time together, meet her family and laugh. Thanks for the driveway bed&breakfast, ya'll!
We hadn't heard the most rave reviews about Sydney
from Aussies we met on the road (but I'm from Ontario, I get it---People
love to hate 😉). But Sydney! What a great city! We stayed with super hospitable friends of friends (Thank you so much Erin and Carmel! You guys are absolute stars!) off trendy Oxford Street. The location was perfect for exploring the city on foot (definitely got our 10,000
steps!). We spent four days in Sydney, and it was just
not enough. We took a peek at the groovy neighborhood
at Bondi Beach, people watching, eating fish and chips and checking out
the beautiful coastal walk to Coogee Beach. (All was lovely but honestly, the famous city beach was
a bit anti-climatic after three weeks of stunning deserted coastlines).
We spent a day rambling around The Rocks, the tourist-cladden, convict settled neighborhood which edges the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Circular Quay. With several
pubs (hotels) claiming to be the oldest in Australia and some pretty iconic landmarks on hand, we had no trouble filling our time. And finally, we spent a day riding the
ferries to Watson's Bay and Manly Beach. What an amazing city to have bays
and beaches around every corner! Loved our day of icecream, more fish
and chips and city-beaching at some quieter spots.
Altho our time in Australia was too short, it was absolutely amazing (have I
mentioned that already?)! We returned back to KL rejuvenated for 2017
and with heaps of memories that make us smile-- and that's truly what a
holiday should be about. Although we have no immediate plans to head
back to the land down under, we are totally going to take a page out of
the Aussies' book and embrace the roadtrippin' way of travel. Our next
big purchase will be a van, and whenever possible, we will be hitting the open road. And during those long hours on the road, we'll inevitably reminisce about beautiful Australia. All I can say is, Good onya, Australia!