Road Trips: Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway from Lake Louise up to Jasper is one of the world's most scenic stretches of road. Aptly named for all the glaciers & icefields, the big Rocky Mountain views, sparkling rivers and lakes along the route, it was difficult for us to make any sort of meaningful headway. Continuously stopping for incredible vistas, icy lake dips, hikes and paddles it took us five days to drive 200kms. We could have easily taken longer---this stretch of highway is spectacular!

Waterfowl Lake: Just 40km from Lake Louise, I think this was our least productive driving day of the entire three-month trip. We drove past the lake, became enamored, did a quick U-ie, and ended up staying three nights in the campground. While there, we hiked into Chephren Lake, watched J. fearlessly frolic in the glacial lake and... realized we were out of diapers. Without backtracking to Lake Louise (and TBH there were no nappies there either), the only option was for Tyler to bike the 40 km to the nearby-ish Saskatchewan Crossing to hope that the gas station sold diapers---Spoiler: They did not. Which in hindsight was a blessing, because it forced us to move on. We'd still probably be parked somewhere in the mountains if there was an outpost with a steady supply of pull-ups out there.

Columbia Icefields: A very cool spot for a number of reasons. First being, it's ice, it's so cool it's frozen (whomp whomp). So this icefield once covered all of Canada and when you're driving along this stretch of highway it is amazing to see the massive shelves of ice clinging to the mountain peaks. The Athabasca Glacier is accessible by road and path and is a pretty neat stop. As you are driving towards the glacier there are sign posts along the road marking where the glacier was in different years. The distance and rate at which the glacier is receding is incredible. Since it's hard to capture the magnitude of the area, let me rely on the old '88 CAA guidebook to paint the picture. So in 1988 CAA promised me that we'd be marveling at a glacier that spanned about 300km². That's a big ice cube. Now the glacier is a mere 7km². SEVEN SQUARE KILOMETRES. As we were wandering around the area, someone cheerfully said "Oh, you'll have to visit again in 10 years when your baby can appreciate it" Ha! There won't be enough ice left in 10 years for a snow cone. I joke, but this shit seriously keeps me up at night.

Camping outside of Jasper, we knew we were leaving the mountains behind us for the foreseeable future. It was suddenly dry and hot...and notably flatter. Feeling the bittersweetness of the evening, sad to be putting our west coast life in the rearview mirror, but also so excited for the road ahead. We grilled up our Alberta beef and felt pretty darn lucky for the days, past, present and future.

Fun•Day at Fundy National Park

Oook let's take a pause and rewind a moment for a quick update; We arrived back in Ontario in September and headed to New Brunswick for October & November. Since snow and general low temps aren't uncommon in Canada for this time of year (and let's face it, it's only getting colder), we decided to store our camping gear and sell our van since we'd be staying (indoors) with our parents for awhile. 

Classified Ad: Currently looking for an RV---Something 20-30ft, mechanically pretty sound and no water damage. The state of the interior isn't so much important, as we'll likely reno. If you know/hear of anything, let us know!

So when New Brunswick repeatedly broke record temp highs during our stay we were kicking ourselves for not bringing our van east. We definitely wanted to be outside while the province experienced the second-coming of summer. Without much camping gear we decided our best option was to check-out the yurt scene at Fundy National Park.

Of course we had to take the round-about way to get there --We hit the Fundy Coastal Drive and stopped in for a picnic and to check out the sea caves at Saint Martins.

Late afternoon, we finally rolled into Fundy National Park! Across Canada in the National Parks are some really cool set-ups for those with little outdoor gear, or the desire to actually sleep outside. The icing on the camping-cake was rolling up to Yurt #2 which included unreal views. 

The view at low tide & high tide. And why is this tide so special you might ask?
Well, the Bay of Fundy boasts the highest tides in the world, rising and falling 12m twice daily.

We arrived at low tide, took in the fresh air and a cider, then wandered down to the seaside town of Alma. After a good little toodle, a bowl of seafood chowder and several pictures of lobster miscellany, we hit up the corner store and headed back up the hill. 

Cranking up the yurt's propane woodstove, we put little J to bed, and then sat outside under the full moon and cooked dinner. 

The new morning was a quintessential Bay of Fundy day---Drizzly, grey, fresh and thick with fog. As someone who drops in on the East Coast every now and again, I find the weather just adds to the overall charm, so we were not deterred from hitting up a couple hikes and a frolic in the rainbow blueberry fields before making our way home.

You might notice a lack of sun in all these pictures.
"It'll burn off" is a catchphrase we use often as motivation to get out.

Oh Jeez, Lake Louise

Having just visited Banff in May, we bypassed the iconic village and headed to Lake Louise. Holy cheddar-smokies, knowing that it's one of the most photographed sites in Canada should have given us some inkling as to what we were getting ourselves into. Usually we are completely deterred from going to super popular touristy places because fighting the crowds just kills our mojo (hence why we visited the Trevi Fountain in Rome at 11pm in February). So naturally, Lake Louise would be a place we gravitate towards in peak summer -_-

As mentioned we had been in Canmore & Banff in May and whole-heartedly expected the same quintessential mountain tourist town out of Lake Louise. As so many of our blunders, a simple Google search could have clarified that we were rolling into a glorified truck-stop, and not a metropolis where you could buy such essentials as say, baby diapers (minor snaffoo). So we arrived in the town square (I'm being generous here), and quickly realized there was no way we were getting close to the lake that day. The parking lots were full, shuttle buses were sold out and given that the campgrounds were also chockers we ended up at the overflow parking lot/camp just outside of town. First impressions of Lake Louise were not spectacular.

Weirdly, it all turned around in the overflow parking lot. There were so many people there, it was a bit festivally---lots of different rigs--RVs, converted camper vans/delivery trucks, even a firetruck with a swing set. Everyone checking out each other's set-up, making dinner, and a collective knowing that we were in the company of others who also did not have the foresight to plan ahead and reserve a legit campsite. As scrappy as it sounds, I did not hate the overflow camp. 

Anyway, we set our alarm to wake-up early (like before-baby-wakes-up early) because we were told the parking lot at the lake would be full by 8am. Again, the franticness of it all definitely had us thinking we were not so interested, but we pressed on. Got to the parking lot at 7:30am and it was nearly full--insanity. Trudged down to the lake as the sun was just coming over the looming mountains...And holy shitting hell, heavens to Betsy. Wow! 

Now here's the thing about Canada and the natural sights---they are usually really big. Despite the rigmarole and crowds in actually getting to the lake, there is generally so much space to enjoy the beauty. I went for a gorgeous sunrise paddle, and being a pretty cold morning and early enough that the tour buses hadn't arrived, had the entire lake to myself. Truly one of the most spectacularly peaceful experiences I have ever had. A super-charged start to the day, and views that are among the best I've ever seen. How's that for a flip-flop in perspective?!

Afterwards we all struck out for a little hike up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse. Although we had previously looked up the next adjoining hike and decided it was too far/too difficult for us, we were just flying high on natural beauty and decided to go for it...Despite not having any food, and limited water, we were heading up The Big Beehive (we generally make our best decisions when flying high). Albeit a little thirsty and hungry, the views from top to bottom were stunning. 

Baby on Board: Big shoutout to Tyler for being our sure-footed sherpa, mountain-goating the relentless switchbacks with ease and care.

We spent a second night at the overflow parking lot---Which again, I full-heartedly enjoyed in my post-epic-paddle/hike-exhaustion bliss. So yes, crowds suck, but sometimes it's absolutely worth it (Also, definitely fight the crowds to see the Sistine Chapel-It's also worth it).

#YOLO in YOHO National Park

I've insisted that if #YOLOinYOHO isn't their tourism slogan, someone isn't doing their job.

Yoho National Park is a gem we knew little about, but as the old Trans Canada runs right through the park we couldn't help ourselves--jumping off the highway for a detour is what our days are made of. With no way exhausting the adventures Yoho has in store, we got a taste of the good stuff and learned what the word confluence means. What a time to be alive!

Emerald Lake

I'd say our first true 'Jewel of the Rockies' lake. You know, the oxymoronic lakes that are creamy electric blue/green but weirdly also super clear. Very inviting for a swim but cold AF. Canadian icons. Being a bit busy in and around the parking lot, the crowds thinned out a bit as we walked the 5km around the lake. To better paint the picture, the trail was busy enough that you wouldn't need bear spray but sparse enough that one could duck off for a sneaky tinkle. I really don't think I could be anymore clear. 

Nature's playground!

Being a glacial lake, the water was only 5° C, but ya know #YOLOinYOHO

Loved seeing the lake from different angles (hope you did too), and way less congested and frantic than getting close to the likes of Lake Louise (more on that later). If you're ever driving through Yoho, Emerald Lake is a must stop.

The Natural Bridge

Carved from the Kicking Horse River, there's a giant hole in the rocks forming a 15-metre natural bridge. Pretty neat quick stop to-or-fro Emerald Lake. Also the Yoho River flows to its confluence with the Kicking Horse River, in case you were wondering

Didn't actually take a pic of the natural bridge 

Takakkaw Falls 

Largest cascading waterfall in Canada, falling an uninterrupted 381 metres, she's a powerful beauty with her own climate (but aren't we all?). When approaching the falls, the sunny day disappears and you're engulfed in a misty wind storm. Super cool, in more ways than one. 

What's more fun than one vintage travel book, but two.
Turns out my Dad had an original copy of the
same book. You can't beat the classics!

I'm sure at this point you're thinking to yourself "Wow, these guys know a lot of fun facts about stuff." Apt. It's true, we do. But the funnest (most fun 😒) fact is that we found all this info offline from a trusty CAA Canadian Book of the Road circa 1979, purchased at a thrift store on Vancouver Island for $1. This book was perused every night, dog-eared, captioned, brought us to some little visited corners of Canada, and will someday be passed onto Baby J as a family heirloom. Thanks CAA.