Road Trips: Icefields Parkway

The Icefields Parkway from Lake Louise up to Jasper is one of the world's most scenic stretches of road. Aptly named for all the glaciers & icefields, the big Rocky Mountain views, sparkling rivers and lakes along the route, it was difficult for us to make any sort of meaningful headway. Continuously stopping for incredible vistas, icy lake dips, hikes and paddles it took us five days to drive 200kms. We could have easily taken longer---this stretch of highway is spectacular!

Waterfowl Lake: Just 40km from Lake Louise, I think this was our least productive driving day of the entire three-month trip. We drove past the lake, became enamored, did a quick U-ie, and ended up staying three nights in the campground. While there, we hiked into Chephren Lake, watched J. fearlessly frolic in the glacial lake and... realized we were out of diapers. Without backtracking to Lake Louise (and TBH there were no nappies there either), the only option was for Tyler to bike the 40 km to the nearby-ish Saskatchewan Crossing to hope that the gas station sold diapers---Spoiler: They did not. Which in hindsight was a blessing, because it forced us to move on. We'd still probably be parked somewhere in the mountains if there was an outpost with a steady supply of pull-ups out there.

Columbia Icefields: A very cool spot for a number of reasons. First being, it's ice, it's so cool it's frozen (whomp whomp). So this icefield once covered all of Canada and when you're driving along this stretch of highway it is amazing to see the massive shelves of ice clinging to the mountain peaks. The Athabasca Glacier is accessible by road and path and is a pretty neat stop. As you are driving towards the glacier there are sign posts along the road marking where the glacier was in different years. The distance and rate at which the glacier is receding is incredible. Since it's hard to capture the magnitude of the area, let me rely on the old '88 CAA guidebook to paint the picture. So in 1988 CAA promised me that we'd be marveling at a glacier that spanned about 300km². That's a big ice cube. Now the glacier is a mere 7km². SEVEN SQUARE KILOMETRES. As we were wandering around the area, someone cheerfully said "Oh, you'll have to visit again in 10 years when your baby can appreciate it" Ha! There won't be enough ice left in 10 years for a snow cone. I joke, but this shit seriously keeps me up at night.

Camping outside of Jasper, we knew we were leaving the mountains behind us for the foreseeable future. It was suddenly dry and hot...and notably flatter. Feeling the bittersweetness of the evening, sad to be putting our west coast life in the rearview mirror, but also so excited for the road ahead. We grilled up our Alberta beef and felt pretty darn lucky for the days, past, present and future.

Oh Jeez, Lake Louise

Having just visited Banff in May, we bypassed the iconic village and headed to Lake Louise. Holy cheddar-smokies, knowing that it's one of the most photographed sites in Canada should have given us some inkling as to what we were getting ourselves into. Usually we are completely deterred from going to super popular touristy places because fighting the crowds just kills our mojo (hence why we visited the Trevi Fountain in Rome at 11pm in February). So naturally, Lake Louise would be a place we gravitate towards in peak summer -_-

As mentioned we had been in Canmore & Banff in May and whole-heartedly expected the same quintessential mountain tourist town out of Lake Louise. As so many of our blunders, a simple Google search could have clarified that we were rolling into a glorified truck-stop, and not a metropolis where you could buy such essentials as say, baby diapers (minor snaffoo). So we arrived in the town square (I'm being generous here), and quickly realized there was no way we were getting close to the lake that day. The parking lots were full, shuttle buses were sold out and given that the campgrounds were also chockers we ended up at the overflow parking lot/camp just outside of town. First impressions of Lake Louise were not spectacular.

Weirdly, it all turned around in the overflow parking lot. There were so many people there, it was a bit festivally---lots of different rigs--RVs, converted camper vans/delivery trucks, even a firetruck with a swing set. Everyone checking out each other's set-up, making dinner, and a collective knowing that we were in the company of others who also did not have the foresight to plan ahead and reserve a legit campsite. As scrappy as it sounds, I did not hate the overflow camp. 

Anyway, we set our alarm to wake-up early (like before-baby-wakes-up early) because we were told the parking lot at the lake would be full by 8am. Again, the franticness of it all definitely had us thinking we were not so interested, but we pressed on. Got to the parking lot at 7:30am and it was nearly full--insanity. Trudged down to the lake as the sun was just coming over the looming mountains...And holy shitting hell, heavens to Betsy. Wow! 

Now here's the thing about Canada and the natural sights---they are usually really big. Despite the rigmarole and crowds in actually getting to the lake, there is generally so much space to enjoy the beauty. I went for a gorgeous sunrise paddle, and being a pretty cold morning and early enough that the tour buses hadn't arrived, had the entire lake to myself. Truly one of the most spectacularly peaceful experiences I have ever had. A super-charged start to the day, and views that are among the best I've ever seen. How's that for a flip-flop in perspective?!

Afterwards we all struck out for a little hike up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse. Although we had previously looked up the next adjoining hike and decided it was too far/too difficult for us, we were just flying high on natural beauty and decided to go for it...Despite not having any food, and limited water, we were heading up The Big Beehive (we generally make our best decisions when flying high). Albeit a little thirsty and hungry, the views from top to bottom were stunning. 

Baby on Board: Big shoutout to Tyler for being our sure-footed sherpa, mountain-goating the relentless switchbacks with ease and care.

We spent a second night at the overflow parking lot---Which again, I full-heartedly enjoyed in my post-epic-paddle/hike-exhaustion bliss. So yes, crowds suck, but sometimes it's absolutely worth it (Also, definitely fight the crowds to see the Sistine Chapel-It's also worth it).