Tuesday, April 23, 2024

The Weekenders: Coba, Mexico

 COBA, COBA, COBA 

You know how some weekends just hit different? Like the perfect mix of adventure, activity and relaxation. Coba was it!

Nothing more I love than hitting the open road... and getting snacks. Am I hungry, goodness no. Do I feel the impulse to constantly munch, heck yes. Shoutout to the dang good roadside tortas as we passed through Tulum, but the real MVP and source of entertainment along the way was picking up a piping HOT, HOT TAMALE! I don't know the science behind it, but that molten pocket of stewed meat (?) and gravy (likely bean mash) held its heat like nothing I've ever experienced...and I've eaten my share of pizza pops. But the most curious thing was the sweet senorita just grabbing that shit off the fire with her bare hands.

ANYWAY. 

We rolled into Coba at sunset and despite some pretty lofty weekend plans, immediately proclaimed we weren't leaving the little slice of paradise we'd come upon. It was beautiful, quiet, lakeside, there were palms trees and a breeze. Tropical haven. Before even checking-in, we decided to take in the sunset at the lakeside gazebo, where Little J. aptly inquired, "Why is no one swimming in this lake?" Why indeed. Well after almost no investigation, turns out we got ourselves into a crocodile situation. Guys, we note the warning signs--- We talk about the jaguar crossing, heed the menacing moose signs, even slow down in hopes of seeing a turtle cross the damn road, and we rarely see what might be about. But walking along the lake and actually seeing a 12 ft crocodile just chilling, flashbacks/cautionary tales of Rescue 911 circa 1994 came flooding back. No way were we getting Captain Hook'ed on this vacation. 

OK.

Next day, we grabbed a quick coffee and morning taco and made our way to the Archeological Zone to tour the Mayan ruins. Thought to have been in existence since 50 BC, there's evidence of ancient Mayan civilization in and around Coba everywhere (our hotel even had a roped-off pile of rocks that dated back). The archeological zone is about 26km², and there are five main sites/groups of structures that have been uncovered, which include temples, ball courts, tunnels and chambers. With a couple of them standing 40+metres and nestled into the jungle, it was very Jumanji. If archeology is your thing, checkout this website which gives all the details and pictures of each of the sites https://www.themayanruinswebsite.com/coba.

Our child crushes electrolytes.
As commonly done, we had wanted to bike around the ruins, but there was no option for a baby jump seat. Not one to give-up, Tyler caught a good laugh when he asked if he could just rent a tricycle-taxi and do the chauffeuring himself. After much debate and best efforts, Tyler was sidelined and had to be carted around. I've never seen someone doing nothing, look so forlorn and envious of a guy pushing around a family in 40 degree heat. Tyler loves to pedal. In all, the tricycle ride was about two hrs, and Baby J just kept shouting "It's better than I thought it would be!" So mixed reviews from this family. I personally loved it. Smaller than the better known Chichen Itza, Coba was the best option for us given the time of year (bloody surface of the sun) and time in our lives (don't give an eff-about-history toddler era). We toodled back to the hotel in time for lunch, a nap and swim...and yah, it was a pretty nice little Saturday. 
Hotel Kaab Coba bringing the jungle vibes

THEN.

As per our Saturday afternoon at the pool, we had met a family with a little guy just our size, and on Sunday we all piled in the fam-mobile, and hit the underground caverns (because that's just what you do after a few Modelos). So cenotes are large, freshwater sinkholes found all over the Yucatan Peninsula. Sacred to the Mayans, these were the water sources for the ancient Mayan civilizations, and represented the strong connection to the natural world. For us, these are revered magical caverns, other worldly holes in the ground. Being away from the coast, and it coming into rainy season in Mexico, we had the underworld-cenotes all to ourselves, which was such a cool, slightly eerie experience. Kudos to Tyler for being our trusty sherpa (I feel like I've said this 100x before-- but seriously, Tyler has carried this child to the top of mountains and to the depths of the earth), getting Baby J down the slippery cavernous steps NBD. Kudos to Baby J for hanging with the bats in near darkness. Kudos to the water wings which kept our baby afloat in the 30 metre glaring abyss. This was so cool. 

Cenote Choo-Ha
Cenote Multum Ha

Besides being alone in the caves and swimming in the clear blue water of the underworld, one of the biggest highlights of the day were the flocks of butterflies we found outside the cenotes. Watching two little boys frolic in clouds of yellow butterflies might be one of the purest moments of delights I have ever seen. My heart 💗

SO.

If you're going to the Mayan Riviera, hit up Coba--- and if you feel so able, go under your own steam. Being away from the tourist centres and in nature in all its cold blue, deep green and fluttery magic is just so so good for the ch'ulel.