The Icefields Parkway from Lake Louise up to Jasper is one of the world's most scenic stretches of road. Aptly named for all the glaciers & icefields, the big Rocky Mountain views, sparkling rivers and lakes along the route, it was difficult for us to make any sort of meaningful headway. Continuously stopping for incredible vistas, icy lake dips, hikes and paddles it took us five days to drive 200kms. We could have easily taken longer---this stretch of highway is spectacular!
Waterfowl Lake: Just 40km from Lake Louise, I think this was our least productive driving day of the entire three-month trip. We drove past the lake, became enamored, did a quick U-ie, and ended up staying three nights in the campground. While there, we hiked into Chephren Lake, watched J. fearlessly frolic in the glacial lake and... realized we were out of diapers. Without backtracking to Lake Louise (and TBH there were no nappies there either), the only option was for Tyler to bike the 40 km to the nearby-ish Saskatchewan Crossing to hope that the gas station sold diapers---Spoiler: They did not. Which in hindsight was a blessing, because it forced us to move on. We'd still probably be parked somewhere in the mountains if there was an outpost with a steady supply of pull-ups out there.
Columbia Icefields: A very cool spot for a number of reasons. First being, it's ice, it's so cool it's frozen (whomp whomp). So this icefield once covered all of Canada and when you're driving along this stretch of highway it is amazing to see the massive shelves of ice clinging to the mountain peaks. The Athabasca Glacier is accessible by road and path and is a pretty neat stop. As you are driving towards the glacier there are sign posts along the road marking where the glacier was in different years. The distance and rate at which the glacier is receding is incredible. Since it's hard to capture the magnitude of the area, let me rely on the old '88 CAA guidebook to paint the picture. So in 1988 CAA promised me that we'd be marveling at a glacier that spanned about 300km². That's a big ice cube. Now the glacier is a mere 7km². SEVEN SQUARE KILOMETRES. As we were wandering around the area, someone cheerfully said "Oh, you'll have to visit again in 10 years when your baby can appreciate it" Ha! There won't be enough ice left in 10 years for a snow cone. I joke, but this shit seriously keeps me up at night.
Camping outside of Jasper, we knew we were leaving the mountains behind us for the foreseeable future. It was suddenly dry and hot...and notably flatter. Feeling the bittersweetness of the evening, sad to be putting our west coast life in the rearview mirror, but also so excited for the road ahead. We grilled up our Alberta beef and felt pretty darn lucky for the days, past, present and future.
