Cambodian Love Affair

Cambodia; A country that remains on replay in our minds and that we have raved about since visiting almost two years ago. The people, despite having been devastated by a genocide only 40 years ago, were as a whole, the kindest and most genuine folks we have ever met. The landscape was beautiful and the history was rich. This was the country where we took our first tuktuk ride, were introduced to coconut curries (in the form of amok), became deathly ill, and began to change a lot of our perspectives. This is a place where we will, without a doubt spend some years in the future.

After our first year in Korea, we did the standard trip around S.E Asia, starting with Malaysia (obviously influencing our next move). From Malaysia we landed in Siem Reap Cambodia for a 3 day tour of Angkor Wat, which turned into a week-long stretch.We stayed at Happy Guesthouse, which was beautiful and the price was right. They had a great bar and restaurant which was an ideal place to hangout and chill. They also had very kind staff. This is where we met Soapy. Soapy worked at the guesthouse with his brother. We hired him for a couple of days of touring around Angkor Wat, and ended up spending some serious facetime with him (the real face, not the iphone kind). He talked a lot about what it was like to live in Cambodia and his family. We also talked a lot about learning English. The thing that we found in general was that Cambodians spoke pretty great English. After coming from Korea, a country pouring millions every year into ESL programs, this was mind boggling. Soapy, a guy with limited means, scrimped and saved $10 each month to attend English class (about 1/5 of his salary), and studied when he wasn't working (literally, when we'd pull up to a temple he'd whip his book out, and by the time we came out he had questions ready for us). As a result, he was able to chat about all aspects of his life and ask us about ours. Alternately, Korean parents throw money at hagwons, forcing their children to toil away for hours each day and still the majority of Koreans cannot sustain a conversation beyond the basics. Perhaps the school of hard knocks has a perk or two?
Anyway, Tyler and I spent time checking out Angkor Wat with Soapy (the obligatory sunrises and sunsets), but after two solid days we needed a break from marveling at ancient stone buildings. We ventured into the city, shopped the markets, lazed on the river banks, biked the dusty roads and ate the happiest of pizzas. I really think we could've stayed in this town forever. But alas, we had to keep on moving.

The smile we left Siem Reap with quickly faded as we rolled into Phnom Penh. Granted, we only spent a few days in the capital city, and did not give it the chance it deserved; Even after returning for a couple of days, we remain disenchanted. Our guesthouse (although certainly not the worst...a certain Sri Lankan hole in the ground comes to mind..) did lack a certain ...je ne sais quoi. Probably contributing to its prison-like ambiance were the lack of windows, air con, and showers. As we emerged from our 'cell', hitting the street, we were quickly and constantly accosted by large groups of street babies, toddlers and kids. Instead of giving them money, we thought we'd do the ol' trick of buying some candies and passing them around. Well, I know I've been accused of being a Grandma (old soul is more becoming) but I hit an alltime high (or low...) in the geriatrics department. After passing out our first round of single candies to a hoard of kids, then to watch their faces and the scene go sour, we realized we had picked up a pack of menthol Halls singles. If this was Halloween, we were the house that gave out raisins and tooth brushes, and our house was about to get egged. After outrunning a mob of kids whose sinuses had just been cleared and smelled of Vics Vapour Rub, the children of Phnom Penh taught us that it is a city not to be messed with.

While in Phnom Penh we checked out the genocide museum, and for lack of a better word, the killing fields which serve as mass graves sites. So, in the 1970's Cambodia was under the thumb of the Khmer Rouge led by a big ol' psycho by the name of Pol Pot. His role models included Stalin and Mao, and he did a good job of being a prodigal son. Basically he envisioned a country that sustained themselves through agriculture, scrapping any advances or influences that could be considered modern or worldly. This included forced labour, killing the educated, burning all of the Cambodian money, and most notably, the murdering of millions of Cambodians. Knowing the history, why did we visit these places? To learn more, be aware of the indecency humans are capable of, and to pay respect to the country's people that had shown us so much warmth. As expected, the day was filled with horrific photos, and accounts of injustice that stirred feelings of sadness and anger. The unexpected aspect was that the killing fields were very much beautiful. Yes, it was the scene of unthinkable violence, however due to the standard audio tour, it was by and large silent. Walking around listening to the stories, and seeing the evidence left behind by way of bones being unearthed each time it rains, there was peace. The silence, a calm lake, and dozens of butterflies made it the perfect place to listen, learn and reflect. It made us hopeful that the victims had found peace too.

After having a heavy few days in the capital city, we bussed it to Sihanoukville, a beach area in the southern part of the country. Again, we were only to stay for a few days, but an unfortunate bout of suspected food poisoning kept us for over a week. I should say, a suspected bout of food poisoning. After 3 days of Tyler writhing in pain and bound to the hotel room, we did a little research as to where the most reputable doctor could be found. As our tuktuk rolled up to what I would describe as a once car garage outfitted with hospital beds, we remained hopeful. While waiting for medical attention we smiled nervously at family members fanning the flies off patients' fresh wounds, and began to assess Tyler's real need to see a doctor. However, after blood tests, wait time, and a hefty bill, it was concluded that Tyler had picked up a parasite somewhere along the way. With a slue of prescriptions in hand, Ty was hitting the beach like a champ within 12 hours and vacation was back on!

What was supposed to be a 10 day stay, turned into a three week love affair. Cambodia showed us its best and worst, and still left us wanting more; I think that's what they call unconditional love! With the sun on our faces, we said 'See you soon' to Cambodia via the Mekong Delta, crossing the border into Vietnam.

Singapore Slingin'

Some are of the opinion that Valentine's Day is a pointless and consumer-driven holiday...although that point can be made, just as any other holiday, there is no obligation to participate. However, don't hate on a day that is based around passing on positive and loving vibes. Isn't that what the world needs more of? Instead, let's not over-analyze and put a dark cloud on the day, scorning people who acknowledge it. Yes, we should strive to let the people we love know it throughout the entire year, but why hate on a holiday that is an excuse to lay it on a little thicker than usual? Who knows? Maybe spreading love and cheer would become more of a habit if we had a few more 'arbitrary love holidays' throughout the year. Am I saying Valentine's Day is the key to world peace? No. But just imagine if Kim Jung Un sent Obama this little gem....

Anyway... the day of love gave Tyler and I the excuse to get out of town check out the city-state of Singapore, just a four hour drive south of Kuala Lumpur. Modernly, Singapore is a country founded by people who decided they didn't like the way things were going for them in Malaysia (and historically, colonized by the British..of course). Knowing this, we assumed that there wouldn't be much difference between Singapore and Malaysia. However, simply put, when comparing the two, the term 'You get what you pay for' comes to mind. Similar to Kuala Lumpur, Singapore's tourist highlights include (although not limited to) Little India, Chinatown, interesting towers and a major world food scene...but with a twist; Everything is so clean, everything is three times the price, and because of insane laws and punishments, it feels safe. Singapore has some of the craziest laws coupled with pretty severe punishments. Most famously in Western culture, we know about the prohibition of chewing gum, however other laws we found a bit over the top were; failure to flush toilet resulting in a fine or public canning, littering on the street three times resulting in having to wear a “I am a litter lout” sign, hugging without permission and connecting to an unsecure wifi hotspot both coming with big fines or jail time.

 So I'm sure you are all thinking..."But what did you do if you couldn't cuddle while while coyly sitting outside Starbucks checking Facebook and chomping down on a big piece of Hubba Bubba?!" Well, as we only had two days in this non-Halal country (in fact even chatting about religion is..as you guessed it, illegal), we ate bacon, drank Singapore Slings and hit the sights...with a few detours along the way.

As you can see..
not a morning person!

 First, to anyone who has spent as little as an evening with Tyler and I, you will know it is quite shocking that there hasn't been entire posts dedicated to the foods of our travels (and their cost effective nature). I will however say that the breakfast buffet we had at our hotel was phenomenal. It was actually one of those breakfasts that makes you excited to wake up, and for me who is not a particularly chipper morning person and one that usually needs to be coaxed into eating a yogurt cup, this is a big statement. Unlimited crispy bacon, french toast, fresh fruit, curry and chapati, baked beans, potato, omlettes, cheeses, pastries! As mundane as it sounds, I can easily say that the complimentary breakfast was the highlight meal(s) of our weekend. (Note: The buffet did not include rice, fish, nor seaweed soup).

Once our bellies were full we headed out to solve a murder mystery. If you've ever played a 'hidden object' computer game, this was the spot for you. After an hour of figuring out riddles and finding clues, we broke out of the room having found out who killed brother 'Brook'. From there we had a wander around town which led us to Chinatown. Although quite similar to KL's Chinatown I found myself repeatedly asking "Where are all the people?" and loving the beauty (and cleanliness) of the Chinese decor mixed with the colonial architecture. Later we spent the heat of the day lounging by the pool and sipping on a few cocktails that share the country's namesake.

That night we had tickets to a production of Romeo and Juliet. It was a modern (and Asian) take on the play and a perfect way to kickoff the evening! From the theatre we wandered around the the harbour where we enjoyed the impressive cityscape, indecisively looked at menus, and even caught the Russia/U.S hockey game (possibly live?..It has proved to be exhausting trying to follow the Olympics in a country that doesn't even have a winter team).

 The next day we had no real plans, so we jumped on an hour-long bus tour to get a brief overview of the city, and an idea of an area or two that we'd like to check out. We ended up wandering around the harbour, checking out the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, the iconic 'Merlion' and returning to Chinatown to grab a few souvenirs.

 Although just scratching the surface of Singapore, I am a big fan and can't wait to head back (once our credit cards have had a break)! As it is a change of scenery, and quite a bit more Western, I believe that Singapore will be to Kuala Lumpur, which Seoul was to Busan when we lived there. An expensive weekend retreat where things feel different and vaguely the same.
...And even though it's not Valentine's Day for another year... much love to you friends! You are never far from our thoughts :) xo

Honeymooning in Langkawi

Our dear friends Jack and Amy recently tied the knot in Hawaii!  Although not our honeymoon, we were able to ride on the coattails of the newly weds' S.E Asian honeymoon as they made their first stop in Kuala Lumpur and later to the beautiful island of Langkawi.We certainly couldn't be happier for Amy and Jack, and feel truly blessed that we had the opportunity to spend time with them over the Chinese New Year!
The first days we spent together were filled with Kuala Lumpur tourist hotspots (most of which I have written about before). However, since it was Chinese New Year, and most of the Chinese people in KL go back to their hometowns, our week was significantly less crowded, and by enlarge, coloured red.

Our week included a trip to the Batu Caves, the National Mosque, street-food on Jalan Alor, henna in Little India, a stroll around Chinatown and poolside days coupled with celebratory drinks. For me, particular standouts were our day at KL's waterpark and a Korean BBQ feast.
Korean bbq was really great (for obvious reasons including grilled kimchi, samgyeobsal and soju) as it made us reminiscent of a place in time. I know it has only been nine months since we left Korea, but after a summer in Canada and six months in KL, it seems pretty distant. For whatever reason, whether it was because it was our first country we lived in abroad, the first real risk we took together, or the friendships we bonded while there, Korea holds a very special place in our hearts. Although not actually in Busan, for two hours we grilled, cheers-ed, and had a Korean friend order for us in Korean. We even topped it off with 'Shark-pops' and a beverage from the mart while watching students trudge off to English academy. Although we often remind ourselves when we are 'homesick' for Korea that one can only move forward in life, it's always nice to be nostalgic.

 The day after Chinese New Year, we figured that the water park would be pretty dead, as many Chinese would still be fulfilling their New Year obligations and family time (perhaps one in the same?). Tyler had been really pushing for a trip to the water park for quite some time and since the prospect of less people presented itself, we jumped on it! Arriving ten minutes before the gates opened and leaving as they shut things down, it was a full day of water slides, wave pools, zoo animals and roller coasters. All was pretty awesomely run-of-the-mill amusement park fun...all accept the fact that Amy and I quickly realized when we stepped out of the change room that we were shamefully unaware, and scantly clad in our bikinis. Have you ever gone to a water park in a Muslim country? Me neither. Have you ever gone to a beach and felt like everyone was staring at you, but in actuality you were just being self conscience and paranoid? If so, our day at the water park would have been your worst nightmare. Wandering around a water park where 98% of women are covered from head to toe, sporting the ever fashionable and liberating 'berkini', we certainly stuck out like sore thumbs. We got the looks, finger-pointing, and the question 'Are you from Europe?" shot our way more than once. We did however, ride the waves like champions and made it out with, (thankfully) no wardrobe malfunctions that can commonly happen while shooting down a water slide.. that would have been just the icing on the cake!

 Midweek, Jack, Amy and I (Tyler joined us a day later due to work) headed to the island of Langkawi, in the Northern part of Malaysia, bordering Thailand. Not having visited any peninsular Malaysian islands, I really had no idea what to expect. Turns out, it was pretty darn great! All things desired and required for a beach vacation were present with abundance. Besides lounging on a beautiful unpopulated beach, throughout the five days we (over)indulged in the most amazing food, duty-free chocolate and beer (a huge welcomed surprise was that the entire island was duty free..30 cent beer, yes please!). Each day was spent dipping in and out of the ocean, building sandcastles, sipping on coconut cocktails and taking in the most amazing sunsets I have ever seen (rivaling only one other we had seen in Bali!). To say the least, it was a pretty lazy and relaxing time away!

By the fourth day we felt like we should pick ourselves up and actually do something, so we settled for an island hopping tour. Although super touristy, it was great to see Langkawi from the water's perspective. We got off the boat and swam in a fresh lake, and at a couple of other beaches...but by about 2pm we were ready to be back on the familiar beach we had made home for the last three days.

Finally on our last day we headed to another part of the island and checked out a cable car up into the mountains. The base of the cable car was conveniently located across from Jack and Amy's new hotel, so we dropped our stuff for the day...ultimately ending up at the beach (surprise, surprise) and coming upon an amazing resort where we enjoyed one last island cocktail and swim before heading off to the airport.

 Although disappointed to leave such a beautiful island, we have benefited, as our eyes have really been opened to the potential of travel in Malaysia! To add salt to the wound, we were saying goodbye to Amy and Jack, as they continued north to Thailand, being totally envious of their upcoming adventures! Nonetheless, Tyler and I will continue our adventures to Singapore for a Valentine's Day this weekend!