An Adriatic AdVANture: The Bosnian Chapter

Prerequisite reading- Time to Hit the Road

**Disclaimer: I always struggle to write about our travels and vacations in destinations with heavy history. How to share our enjoyment while making efforts to not be completely oblivious to a country's past? My solution--Keep it brief on both accounts.

 

We took a very brief pause in the Croatian Chapter of our journey to pop into Bosnia and Herzegovina. 

I was intrigued by Bosnia. As a kid I had heard about the Bosnian War in the '90's, but knew next to nothing about the war or the country. So what do we do...Hit up Wikipedia and then go down a dark internet rabbit-hole that leaves one with more questions than we started. So likely getting it wrong, here is the most brief of run-downs; 

Like most Balkan countries, Bosnia has had its share of trials, tribulations and reorganizations. Although its history began in the stone-ages, let's just note those who have played a role in the shaping of the culture and demographic make-up starting with the Illyrians, Celts, then of course the Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Communists, Nazis, an ongoing Croatian/Serbian tug-of-war, ever-going civil unrest, cultural genocide, and finally the most recent Bosnian war officially concluding in 1995. In no way are we making light of any of this heavy history, as present evidence of the turbulent past was undeniable. Bullet holes in building walls, tattered propaganda posters still pasted about and first-hand accounts of living through deadly conflict served as a reminder. 

BUT just like other countries of the region, wow--Beautiful geography, delicious food and the most welcoming people. The Balkans always give a true feeling of being invited into someone's family home (which you probably will be, because that's just the way things are done). 

Mostar: The town made known to us by pictures of the interesting Mostar Bridge or Stari Most. Having stood for 420 years, until destroyed in 1993 during the most recent of wars, we were there to check out the replica, built in 2004. Sure the bridge was neat, and we held our breath while we watched teenagers dive off it to the river below, but to be honest, the now-made-for-tourists town didn't thrill us all that much (being that we weren't on the hunt for Balkan-esque knick knacks and paddy whacks). We had a quick stroll and then headed on our way down the road to the nearby village of Blagaj.

Blagaj: Here we stayed in a campground on the banks of the Buna river, and had a lazy evening. We checked out the Dervish House--A Islamic monastery beautifully tucked into the cliffs where the river begins. Formerly for those who have accepted material poverty, there was almost nothing inside but the traditional rugs and divans of the Ottoman era. 

Kravica Waterfalls: The next morning the sun was shining and we headed off to splash around in the Kravica Waterfalls. The waterfalls were pretty out of this world! We spent hours climbing rocks, swimming across the lagoon and getting up close and personal with all the falling water (hold onto your bathers!).

As our visit to Bosnia was very brief, only checking out a few places, all of which were less than 50 km from the Croatian border. Though, what was a mere glimpse was enough to inspire a full-on deep dive in the future.

....Until then, we were about to stumble our way into (and out) of Croatian wine country!

An Adriatic AdVANture: The Italian Chapter

Prerequisite reading- Time to Hit the Road

Venice once was dear,
The pleasant place of all festivity,
The revel of the Earth, the masque of Italy.- Lord Byron

We had just flown back from Switzerland and after an indulgent week of chocolate, cheese, best friends, soft beds, cool sleeping temps and hot water showers we were ready to get on the road again for the last leg of our summer trip, Italia! 

We picked up our van and managed to find a meager parking spot of a campsite outside of Venice. Generally speaking we enjoy a bit more space and campy feel, so we did only stay one night in the area. We did however enjoy a pop-into the picture-postcard of a floating city. Although always charming, word to the wise, Venice is super crowded in the summer and super hot. Having visited previously in November, I would take a quiet empty-ish, dark and drizzly Venice over the hot, sticky summer crowds any day. But I mean, it's Venice, and who can really complain about a city that is just so enchanting and beautiful? Having previously spent four days in the city we had no must-sees, and no agenda but to wander the canals and visit as many bacaris as possible filling up on tapas-like Cicchetti and on-tap wine. Mission accomplished. 

Wanting to escape the crowds, we drove south and for no particular reason settled on the seaside town of Spiaggia Lido di Dante. Having nothing particularly noteworthy to report from this holiday town, other than one of most delicious pasta meals ever consumed, it gets an honourable mention. Otherwise, we continued to make our way south along the Adriatic sea, popping into various seaside towns and basically stuffing our faces for the full geographical length of Italy.

On our way by, we made a call into the Republic of San Marino, the oldest republic in the world. Technically it's its own country, but like the Vatican, no passport is needed and it feels an awful lot like you're still in Italy. Being small but mighty, San Marino is one of the oldest and wealthiest countries in the world. San Marino is perched way above sea-level, and it was a big old hill for a van like us to climb. Luckily for our transmission, there was a cable car that helped summit Mount Titan. Once you step off the cable car you are instantly taken back to the 4th century. There is no modern section of the city up there--it's all castle and medievally everywhere. 

Next we headed to Vico del Gargano, and found this amazingly spacious, relaxed and unpopulated campground. Having set-up in a lovely wooded area, propped up our camp chairs, and cracked a tinny, we began to become aware of the people around us...were not wearing pants. By that point we had committed to the campsite, and thought we'd just go for it. So much so, that we ended up staying 10 days. Besides the clothing optional liberties of life, the best part of the campground was the Italian home-cooking. Every evening, the Mama of the big house would cook up a huge feast, and if you wanted, you could come gather around the long table by the pool and have a big old family dinner. It was so so lovely, and where we had the best pomodoro gnocchi of life, complete with tomatos grown in the garden below the pool. This place was a little slice of heaven. Pasta&tanned-buttcheek-filled-heaven. 

Throughout the week we had the best time chatting with the folks around the campground (as one does), and one particularly spirited convo fuelled by San Marino liqueur, had us deciding that our best option and immediate urgent necessity of life was to drive across the country the next day to Naples. Home of PIZZA!

If you know me even a little bit, you know I love pizza. I love a thick American slice, I love a deep dish pie, I love a crispy thin woodfire crust, I love a Pizza Pop from 7-11. I love it all. So when we decided to make the 4 hour trek across Italy solely for pizza, it seemed completely justified. I know people rag on Naples for being dirty and dangerous, but all I saw was Aperol Spritz and pizza (and a bunch of graffiti and garbage, and certainly did not seek any cultural experiences. I was here for one thing and one thing only). By the end of the night I was just a happy meatball rolling around in bed, willing myself to digest as quickly as possible, because I knew I would be after another pizza or two before we left the next day. I went to sleep with a big old tomato sauce smile on my face that night. 

Travel-stars aligned once more, and we met up with New Brunswickers Mike and Serenity for the night!

After a mere 12 hours in Naples we were back on the road, essentially back towards the direction we had just come from. Along the way, we stopped in the amazing city of Matera. 

Matera is a city of caves that line the banks of a massive canyon. The city of Matera is thought to have been lived in since the year 10,000 BC (yes, you read that correctly) and could possibly be one of the oldest continually lived in settlements in the world...up until the 1950's when the entire city was condemned due to dire living conditions. The city lay empty and abandoned until the 1980's (a mere blip in relative time), when the once considered stain and embarrassment of Italy, was then repaired to a national treasure and tourist destination. So much so, that the city was given UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1993, and named a European Capital of Culture in 2019. Both titles totally justified.

This is definitely one of the coolest cities I have ever been in. he entire city is made up of caves! (Actually just watched the new James Bond last night and the film's opening scene is set in Matera) We spent the day wandering about, and then drove to the other side of the canyon and parked up for the night over looking the twinkling lights of the caves. In the night we were awaken by Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons, in that a gaggle of drunken Italian boys showed up around 3am to finish off their night by singing (assumed) traditional Italian songs. Albeit, a bit annoying, it couldn't have been more wholesome. In the morning we hiked down the canyon and checked out some of the more rudimentary caves (less homey, and more squatter-y, underage drink-y hovels). Yeah, they smelled like pee, but it was still cool. The whole city felt like a living nativity scene, intriguing, and a must-see if you are traveling throughout Italy! 

Finally we landed in on our final destination- Bari. Being a port city, and one of the main ferry routes from Albania to Italy, we never heard anyone rave about Bari. We really weren't expecting anything except a night's sleep and perhaps something yummy to nibble. However, turns out Bari has an amazingly beautiful seaside and walled city. 

I just wish for each of you to find someone who looks at you like I look at cured meats and cheeses.

The next day we got on the 8 hr ferry back to Albania. Not thinking about the fact that it was going to be daytime, we booked ourselves a cabin, and prepared ourselves for a proper boat party. One last hurrah before our summer vacation was over! 

The biggest take away from our roadtrip through Italy was that gas stations across the country serves better Italian food than any high-end Italian restaurant I've been too outside Italy (with the exception of Albania). 

Although we haven't seen it all (still want to visit Sardinia, and Florence) a wise friend once said, "Always leave something behind, so you have a reason to come back!" So, until next time Italia, arrivederci!

The Van Retrieval - A Roller Coaster Day

The Mission: Retrieve our new (to us) van from Edmonton. Drive it back to Vancouver as quickly and safely as possible.

The Obstacles: 

Fleeting Daylight- In the height of winter we get 8-9 good hours of daylight if it's a sunny day. Yes, vans drive in the dark too, but the windy mountain roads make things a bit trickier.

Winter in General- Driving in Canada in the winter is a crapshoot. On any given day encounters with snow, slush, rain and/or ice can make a routine drive a real nail-biter. Combine that with unpredictable pockets of mountain weather, avalanche warnings and super cold temperatures, it's quite a climate cocktail.

Omicron- Nobody has time. 

The Plan: Fly to Edmonton in the morning, pickup the van, have breakfast, drive like a mad-man and make it through as much of the mountains as possible before dark. Sleep. Finish the 13 hour drive off the next day. 

So how did this flawless plan shake out? Well, like most Mary + Tyler ventures, there were some hiccups, silver-linings and chuckles along the way.

Part 1: Tyler left Vancouver well before the first light of day, and arrived in Edmonton to be greeted by unholy -35°celsius temperatures. After having breakfast with Micah and Melissa, Ty headed out and made great time through the mountains, only stopping once and a while to have an icy pee.

But was it -35°C, George?

The next morning Tyler braved the cold once more and had his sights set on the more temperate Vancouver. However, when he went to fire up the old girl, it did not start. Yup, vehicles, especially the senior citizen types, do not like the extreme cold either. So after faffing around and happening upon the only (retired) mechanic in town, it was decided that the van needed some TLC. It was towed to the next town to have the battery revived. That unfortunately left Tyler in a small mountain town with some cell coverage, no vehicle, no bus service and the next train wasn't due to stop for another week. It was time to thumb a ride.

Hitchhiking in the frigid cold is not for the fainthearted, but knowing Tyler, he'd likely be riding shotgun within a half-hour. So when Tyler later called reporting that he was currently on a milk-run delivering cigarettes and eating Mary Brown's chicken with Paul, the story 100% checked out. Paul, an absolute legend with a heart of gold, drove Tyler the 300 kms to Kamloops where he got a bus back to Vancouver (yes, we'd decided to completely abandon the van for the moment). Sure, Paul didn't take the most direct route, but Ty now knows the best fishing holes and ideal picnic spots to indulge in some sneaky beers and a bucket of fried chicken. I'd say we're now richer in more ways than one. 

Finally, after a long couple of days of sorted travel, Tyler thought he'd grab a quick bite before boarding the bus for the next six hours. Feeling pretty tired, vanless and defeated, and to add salt to the wounds, his pants inexplicably gave way and split open (turns out both vans and denim hate the cold). At this point Tyler was either looking particularly bedraggled, or his classic East Coast joie de vie was somehow still shining through, because his meal was generously on the house. So in the end, you could say it was an Even Steven sort of scenario.  

Check out a collection of video clips, love (voice)notes and updates from the road!

Part 2: The mission picked up a week later, and was thankfully, albeit time consuming, much less of a rigmarole. Tyler caught the early morning bus back to Kamloops where Sweet Paul was waiting for Tyler. Yep, not only did Paul pickup a complete stranger and drive him 300kms out of the goodness of his heart, he then drove that distance again to deliver the van. Paul is the true hero of this story, and serves as a solid reminder to go out of your way to help someone else out once and while--The chicken's on us next time, bud.

So, why did we go through the trouble of buying a van so far away? Great question. Turns out it's hard to come-by a van with a third captain seat (opposed to the full bench seat) in the back---which we need for our little gaffer. Maybe people don't typically want to vanlife with their < 1 year old. Maybe most people would opt for a more substantial rig. Maybe we should've just bought a tent, who knows? We do know that this van has all the right seats in all the right places, and that now the van build begins!

Proof that Tyler and the van are in Vancouver!