Monday, March 14, 2022

An Adriatic AdVANture: The Italian Chapter

Prerequisite reading- Time to Hit the Road

Venice once was dear,
The pleasant place of all festivity,
The revel of the Earth, the masque of Italy.- Lord Byron

We had just flown back from Switzerland and after an indulgent week of chocolate, cheese, best friends, soft beds, cool sleeping temps and hot water showers we were ready to get on the road again for the last leg of our summer trip, Italia! 

We picked up our van and managed to find a meager parking spot of a campsite outside of Venice. Generally speaking we enjoy a bit more space and campy feel, so we did only stay one night in the area. We did however enjoy a pop-into the picture-postcard of a floating city. Although always charming, word to the wise, Venice is super crowded in the summer and super hot. Having visited previously in November, I would take a quiet empty-ish, dark and drizzly Venice over the hot, sticky summer crowds any day. But I mean, it's Venice, and who can really complain about a city that is just so enchanting and beautiful? Having previously spent four days in the city we had no must-sees, and no agenda but to wander the canals and visit as many bacaris as possible filling up on tapas-like Cicchetti and on-tap wine. Mission accomplished. 

Wanting to escape the crowds, we drove south and for no particular reason settled on the seaside town of Spiaggia Lido di Dante. Having nothing particularly noteworthy to report from this holiday town, other than one of most delicious pasta meals ever consumed, it gets an honourable mention. Otherwise, we continued to make our way south along the Adriatic sea, popping into various seaside towns and basically stuffing our faces for the full geographical length of Italy.

On our way by, we made a call into the Republic of San Marino, the oldest republic in the world. Technically it's its own country, but like the Vatican, no passport is needed and it feels an awful lot like you're still in Italy. Being small but mighty, San Marino is one of the oldest and wealthiest countries in the world. San Marino is perched way above sea-level, and it was a big old hill for a van like us to climb. Luckily for our transmission, there was a cable car that helped summit Mount Titan. Once you step off the cable car you are instantly taken back to the 4th century. There is no modern section of the city up there--it's all castle and medievally everywhere. 

Next we headed to Vico del Gargano, and found this amazingly spacious, relaxed and unpopulated campground. Having set-up in a lovely wooded area, propped up our camp chairs, and cracked a tinny, we began to become aware of the people around us...were not wearing pants. By that point we had committed to the campsite, and thought we'd just go for it. So much so, that we ended up staying 10 days. Besides the clothing optional liberties of life, the best part of the campground was the Italian home-cooking. Every evening, the Mama of the big house would cook up a huge feast, and if you wanted, you could come gather around the long table by the pool and have a big old family dinner. It was so so lovely, and where we had the best pomodoro gnocchi of life, complete with tomatos grown in the garden below the pool. This place was a little slice of heaven. Pasta&tanned-buttcheek-filled-heaven. 

Throughout the week we had the best time chatting with the folks around the campground (as one does), and one particularly spirited convo fuelled by San Marino liqueur, had us deciding that our best option and immediate urgent necessity of life was to drive across the country the next day to Naples. Home of PIZZA!

If you know me even a little bit, you know I love pizza. I love a thick American slice, I love a deep dish pie, I love a crispy thin woodfire crust, I love a Pizza Pop from 7-11. I love it all. So when we decided to make the 4 hour trek across Italy solely for pizza, it seemed completely justified. I know people rag on Naples for being dirty and dangerous, but all I saw was Aperol Spritz and pizza (and a bunch of graffiti and garbage, and certainly did not seek any cultural experiences. I was here for one thing and one thing only). By the end of the night I was just a happy meatball rolling around in bed, willing myself to digest as quickly as possible, because I knew I would be after another pizza or two before we left the next day. I went to sleep with a big old tomato sauce smile on my face that night. 

Travel-stars aligned once more, and we met up with New Brunswickers Mike and Serenity for the night!

After a mere 12 hours in Naples we were back on the road, essentially back towards the direction we had just come from. Along the way, we stopped in the amazing city of Matera. 

Matera is a city of caves that line the banks of a massive canyon. The city of Matera is thought to have been lived in since the year 10,000 BC (yes, you read that correctly) and could possibly be one of the oldest continually lived in settlements in the world...up until the 1950's when the entire city was condemned due to dire living conditions. The city lay empty and abandoned until the 1980's (a mere blip in relative time), when the once considered stain and embarrassment of Italy, was then repaired to a national treasure and tourist destination. So much so, that the city was given UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1993, and named a European Capital of Culture in 2019. Both titles totally justified.

This is definitely one of the coolest cities I have ever been in. he entire city is made up of caves! (Actually just watched the new James Bond last night and the film's opening scene is set in Matera) We spent the day wandering about, and then drove to the other side of the canyon and parked up for the night over looking the twinkling lights of the caves. In the night we were awaken by Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons, in that a gaggle of drunken Italian boys showed up around 3am to finish off their night by singing (assumed) traditional Italian songs. Albeit, a bit annoying, it couldn't have been more wholesome. In the morning we hiked down the canyon and checked out some of the more rudimentary caves (less homey, and more squatter-y, underage drink-y hovels). Yeah, they smelled like pee, but it was still cool. The whole city felt like a living nativity scene, intriguing, and a must-see if you are traveling throughout Italy! 

Finally we landed in on our final destination- Bari. Being a port city, and one of the main ferry routes from Albania to Italy, we never heard anyone rave about Bari. We really weren't expecting anything except a night's sleep and perhaps something yummy to nibble. However, turns out Bari has an amazingly beautiful seaside and walled city. 

I just wish for each of you to find someone who looks at you like I look at cured meats and cheeses.

The next day we got on the 8 hr ferry back to Albania. Not thinking about the fact that it was going to be daytime, we booked ourselves a cabin, and prepared ourselves for a proper boat party. One last hurrah before our summer vacation was over! 

The biggest take away from our roadtrip through Italy was that gas stations across the country serves better Italian food than any high-end Italian restaurant I've been too outside Italy (with the exception of Albania). 

Although we haven't seen it all (still want to visit Sardinia, and Florence) a wise friend once said, "Always leave something behind, so you have a reason to come back!" So, until next time Italia, arrivederci!

Tuesday, January 25, 2022

The Van Retrieval - A Roller Coaster Day

The Mission: Retrieve our new (to us) van from Edmonton. Drive it back to Vancouver as quickly and safely as possible.

The Obstacles: 

Fleeting Daylight- In the height of winter we get 8-9 good hours of daylight if it's a sunny day. Yes, vans drive in the dark too, but the windy mountain roads make things a bit trickier.

Winter in General- Driving in Canada in the winter is a crapshoot. On any given day encounters with snow, slush, rain and/or ice can make a routine drive a real nail-biter. Combine that with unpredictable pockets of mountain weather, avalanche warnings and super cold temperatures, it's quite a climate cocktail.

Omicron- Nobody has time. 

The Plan: Fly to Edmonton in the morning, pickup the van, have breakfast, drive like a mad-man and make it through as much of the mountains as possible before dark. Sleep. Finish the 13 hour drive off the next day. 

So how did this flawless plan shake out? Well, like most Mary + Tyler ventures, there were some hiccups, silver-linings and chuckles along the way.

Part 1: Tyler left Vancouver well before the first light of day, and arrived in Edmonton to be greeted by unholy -35°celsius temperatures. After having breakfast with Micah and Melissa, Ty headed out and made great time through the mountains, only stopping once and a while to have an icy pee.
But was it -35°C, George?
The next morning Tyler braved the cold once more and had his sights set on the more temperate Vancouver. However, when he went to fire up the old girl, it did not start. Yup, vehicles, especially the senior citizen types, do not like the extreme cold either. So after faffing around and happening upon the only (retired) mechanic in town, it was decided that the van needed some TLC. It was towed to the next town to have the battery revived. That unfortunately left Tyler in a small mountain town with some cell coverage, no vehicle, no bus service and the next train wasn't due to stop for another week. It was time to thumb a ride.

Hitchhiking in the frigid cold is not for the fainthearted, but knowing Tyler, he'd likely be riding shotgun within a half-hour. So when Tyler later called reporting that he was currently on a milk-run delivering cigarettes and eating Mary Brown's chicken with Paul, the story 100% checked out. Paul, an absolute legend with a heart of gold, drove Tyler the 300 kms to Kamloops where he got a bus back to Vancouver (yes, we'd decided to completely abandon the van for the moment). Sure, Paul didn't take the most direct route, but Ty now knows the best fishing holes and ideal picnic spots to indulge in some sneaky beers and a bucket of fried chicken. I'd say we're now richer in more ways than one. 

Finally, after a long couple of days of sorted travel, Tyler thought he'd grab a quick bite before boarding the bus for the next six hours. Feeling pretty tired, vanless and defeated, and to add salt to the wounds, his pants inexplicably gave way and split open (turns out both vans and denim hate the cold). At this point Tyler was either looking particularly bedraggled, or his classic East Coast joie de vie was somehow still shining through, because his meal was generously on the house. So in the end, you could say it was an Even Steven sort of scenario.  

Check out a collection of video clips, love (voice)notes and updates from the road!

Part 2: The mission picked up a week later, and was thankfully, albeit time consuming, much less of a rigmarole. Tyler caught the early morning bus back to Kamloops where Sweet Paul was waiting for Tyler. Yep, not only did Paul pickup a complete stranger and drive him 300kms out of the goodness of his heart, he then drove that distance again to deliver the van. Paul is the true hero of this story, and serves as a solid reminder to go out of your way to help someone else out once and while--The chicken's on us next time, bud.

So, why did we go through the trouble of buying a van so far away? Great question. Turns out it's hard to come-by a van with a third captain seat (opposed to the full bench seat) in the back---which we need for our little gaffer. Maybe people don't typically want to vanlife with their < 1 year old. Maybe most people would opt for a more substantial rig. Maybe we should've just bought a tent, who knows? We do know that this van has all the right seats in all the right places, and that now the van build begins!

Proof that Tyler and the van are in Vancouver!

Sunday, January 2, 2022

12 Books for 2022

This year I am making it a point to indulge in one of my fave pastimes, and to read at least one book a month. These books will be of my choosing based on my interests and/or for entertainment (which will most certainly exclude the latest approaches to teaching primary math or how to introduce baby-led weaning). Twelve books throughout an entire year doesn't seem like such a daunting task, does it? Well we'll see. One book, one blog update, one month at a time. 

January - The Henna Artist by Alka Joshi

Being ever intrigued and enamoured with Indian culture, I have read many fictional novels set in India. When this little number popped out of my Christmas stocking, I was pretty eager to dive in (and ended up reading it in two days). The story is set in Rajastan's capital city of Jaipur in 1955, 15 years after the repartition. The main character, Lakshmi works to carve out a life of her own choosing, and helps provide women with more choices than society would otherwise give them. No small feat when navigating the caste system, gender inequalities and expectations, as well as the ever pressure to procreate. This novel highlights the hard truths about women and their choices in India. Having to be her own heroine, Lakshmi does have delicious moments of triumph throughout the novel and there are a handful of likeable characters who come through with decency and kindness.

Although this book was set 60+ years ago and feminism thankfully continues to evolve, gender roles and traditions can run deep, as witnessed firsthand during our trip to India. I loved our trip, but it was the only time I have been made to feel like I was regarded as less, simply for being a woman. One particularly overt display of male chauvinism was experienced while in the Rajastani Thar Desert, where after spending two nights at a homestay, we were asked to register in the logbook. Circled by the men of the household, I sat down and began to fill out my name, father's name (because that seems like a pertinent detail) and address. No sooner had I began, one of the uncles began criticizing the time it was taking me, and brashly insisted that Tyler make me write faster. As you can imagine, Uncle's criticisms were met with reproach. Shortly afterwards we were getting packed up and found ourselves with a quick moment alone with the elder Auntie of the family who had prepared our meals. We thanked her and delighted as she quickly tucked the gratuity we handed her into the top of her blouse. Forge onward, Madam.

February- Indians on Vacation by Thomas King

I know that I previously mentioned that I read a lot of books set in India. Well despite the title, this book isn't about Indians from India. It's about a First Nations couple who take a trip to find out more about their ancestry and make connections to places far from home. Husband and wife, Blackbird and Mimi are very different travellers and the book got me thinking about whether I'm more a Bird or a Mimi. Bird can be a 'glass half empty' kind of guy whose morosity often reads as dry humour, my fave. ---If you've ever read A Man Named Ove, he's a lot like Ove. Also you really should read A Man Called Ove, it's funny and sad and heartwarming and so wonderful.--- On the other hand, Mimi is up for anything and wants to see and do it all. She constantly pushes Bird to experience things while on vacation, while Bird is perpetually unimpressed and compares everything to his hometown in Canada. 

I tend to think I'm more of a Mimi, but with less attachment to the Lonely Planet guidebook. I did enjoy reading about their adventures in cities that we have also visited such as Prague, Budapest and Athens. And because of those guidebooks that Mimi constantly references, I learned of a lot of tidbits about the places and sights we've seen---Did you know that the Astronomical Clock in Prague has a figure representing Death who rings a bell and turns his hourglass upside down each hour? That detail is so Bird. 

March- Educated by Tara Westover

I have been circling this book for about three years, and even read the first 30 pages about a year ago, but for one reason or another had never gone the distance until now. Educated is a memoir written by a woman who chronicles her childhood and evolving family relationships in the context of religious fundamentalism and mental illness. It is a story that is often painful to read. 

Throughout the entire book I kept thinking about perspective and how all our memories shift and transform over time. I kept wondering about what life was like for the author's mom, the inner tickings of her father or what any one of her siblings' narrative would be if they wrote an account of their childhood or family dynamics. Yes, the children all grew up in the same home, but the sons and daughters were not treated the same. Even the order in which the children were born would play a big role in their perception of their home life. In the end, as the obscene gaslighting inflicted upon the author unfolds (fueled by religious delusion), the validity and accuracy of memories and childhood experiences is in constant question. With strength the author stands firm, and ultimately values herself over her toxic familia relationships. 

April - And Then There Were None by Agatha Christie
From the queen of the genre, a classic whodunnit! Although dated in themes and language (published in 1939), this story had us guessing until the epilogue as to who was terrorizing Indian Island. As a cast of characters gather under mysterious pretense on the luxurious Indian Island, it is only a matter of time before thing goes awry.
 
This book really needs no explanation, as it follows a cookie-cutter murder mystery formula that has been tried and tested. With that being said, I am a fan of crime fiction novels and really loved reading an O.G.

You might think, where did you even find this book? Why did you read this? Valid questions--- Found and purchased in rural Manitoba at a church rummage sale. I needed to use the washroom, and felt obligated to make a purchase ($0.25). I read it because, why not?

May - Is Everyone Hanging Our Without Me? by Mindy Kaling

Before this book I have only ever read one other memoir--FYI Seth Rogan's Yearbook is so so funny---His stories had me howling. 

Generally I stick to fiction, but I am a big fan of Mindy Kaling, so when perusing the book exchange in our building's laundry room, I thought why not? (How about that sentence--three commas, two conjunctions and a rhetorical question, heyo!)

Mindy's collection of short stories and essays were light and an easy read. Having seen Mindy's play Matt & Ben and being a huge fan of The Office, I especially loved reading about her personal experiences relating to these projects. 
There's something to be said about being able to read a quick chapter, put the book down, and days later pick it back up, not having to jog your memory about characters and a plot. As a now and again sleep deprived Mama, this book was there for me. I laughed, I chortled, I related. 

June - State of Terror by Hillary Rodham Clinton & Louise Penny

State of Terror was a bit of a departure from my regular book choice. I can count on one hand the number of action thriller novels I have read. They usually have me rolling my eyes and muttering "Come on". 
I read this during a very busy month in my life, and it was exactly the type of book I needed. An easy story to pickup for 20 minutes every couple days and the plot just steadily ticked along--One might say it was full of action from start to finish. 

The book follows Ellen Adams, a newly appointed U.S Secretary of State who has unexpectedly fallen into the job of tracking down a suave international terrorist before his evil plans materialize. Though fictional, it can't help be noticed that characters and plots-lines often touch on current and past political realities in the U.S. Special mention goes out to the often referenced past administration who is noted to have been so inept, clueless and reckless, leaving the country and international relations in a mess. I definitely chortled more than once at the digs directed at the former fictional President. Ah Hillary--If you can't beat 'em, just write a best seller "not" about them-- always taking the highroad. 
   
July - The Lost Daughter by Gill Paul

Found by chance at a campground library, The Lost Daughter is a perfect summer read. A fictional story based on the former Russian Royals, this story follows Maria, and entertains the notion that one of the Romonovs survived the family's tragic massacre. Always finding the Romonov family intriguing, this story right away captured our imaginations---what if one of the members of the most wealthy family in world had survived? Couple that with a 'Women of WWII' theme, and gosh darnnit, you've got yourself a ripping yarn! 

As mentioned this story follows Romonov daughter Maria, and begins just before the family's said massacre. It follows Maria's escape, and life in Russia throughout the 20th century, enduring civil war, world war, Communism and the NKVD. Given the subject matter, as expected this book broke our hearts, and alternately had us exclaiming with triumph as the characters waded through some pretty dark times. If you like to invest in some fictional characters, read this book (and sorry to all those who happened to be hanging out with us while we read this book--It consumed us).

August - The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo by Taylor Jenkins Reid

I had heard a lot of chitter-chatter about this book, and was excited to see it on the nightstand of a dear friend. Even more excited when I asked her about it and she said it was so good, and that I could have it. A booklover's love language. 

Evelyn Hugo is a Marilyn Monroe-esque 1950's bombshell who, just as the title suggests, had seven husbands. Some were unions of love, some were not. Amongst the seven partnerships are men who will melt your heart and those who will make your blood boil. And there are a couple relationships that are the real-deal and have you rooting for Evelyn to make it work.

I really liked this book as it read like a 1950's old timey movie. It was easy and entertaining. I did continuously change my opinion about Evelyn throughout the book. Do I like her? Is she as confident and in control as she perceives herself to be? Does she care about others? Are men her downfall? And if so, boo. Again, loved the book for what it was, but as I'm whole-heartedly into women who stand on their own two feet, and people in general who are genuine and kind, Evelyn's character was a bit of a trick for me. Didn't love her, didn't hate her. Then again, who doesn't love to ride an emotional rollercoaster with a book character? After all, we can't be loved by everyone all the time.

September - Take Your Breath Way by Linwood Barclay

I'm a fan of Linwood Barclay and have read a few of his books. I tend to pickup one up and fly through it thoroughly entertained... but to be honest I could not recall another title or plot written by B-Clay. To be further transparent, while talking with Tyler about this book three days after reading it, I still struggled to remember the details of the thriller. Again, that's not to say that I didn't devour it.

Everyone wants to know what happened to Brie. Was she murdered? Did she skip town? Is still out there? With so many theories swirling around from a multitude of characters, it all seems plausible and kept me guessing until the end. 

October - The Dictionary of Lost Words by Pip Williams

Ohhh guys, we've got ourselves a goodie! The Dictionary of Lost Words is a story that is loosely based on historical events surrounding the collection, research and editing of the Oxford English Dictionary published from 1884-1928. I know, it sounds like a total bore. Luckily the main character, Esme spices things up as she begins to think about the words and definitions that are being accepted into the dictionary-- a dictionary that is supposed to be the ultimate historical record of the English language. As Esme begins to notice that the content is being written and edited largely from an upper-class male's perspective, she questions the process. 

As a result, Esme collects her own set of words and definitions from the different people she encounters throughout her life--including near-beggars, market vendors, suffragists, wounded soldiers and domestic workers--- some who are illiterate, and all a far cry from the scholars of Oxford. In particular, Esme highlights words used by women to describe their experiences, often noticing that the accepted definition written in the dictionary is quite contrary to realities being lived. The words she finds and records are vulgar, heart-wrenching, bold and soulful---And really, all the best words are, aren't they?

November - The Vanishing Half by Brit Bennett
On the surface this story is about a protagonist who makes a choice to leave her past behind and devoid herself of her race, and the associated limitations. When doing so, she leaves behind her community, family, and most notably her twin--literally becoming the vanishing half of a couplet. As the search for the lost twin fuels this story, there are so many wonderful characters that develop along the way. Following the characters through decades, it becomes apparent that all players have experienced a personal 'vanishing half', where their lives have taken a monumental shift at some point throughout their lives. 

Besides having a cast of loveable characters and just a good, entertaining story, I love the idea of a vanishing half--or vanishing quarter or whatever bit of ourselves have vanished over time and been replaced with something new, better, different. At whatever age the monumental shift(s) occur, and despite the inevitable growing pains, why would we want things to stay the same forever?  

December - Run, Hide Repeat: A Memoir of a Fugitive Childhood by Pauline Dakin
I don't know how I feel about this book---It was definitely one that evoked a lot of feelings while reading it, which of course translated into me exclaiming "Come on!, Yah right!, No way!" constantly. I transitioned pretty quick from wanting to hug the characters to wanting to shake them...and then wanting to hug them again.

This story is told from a daughter's point of view, who learns the truth about her family as an adult, putting a spin on her childhood experiences. As she begins to see her youth through an alternate lens, her adult relationships twist and turn. Honestly, if not set in Canada, I would have probably been duped into the fantastical world of Father Stan and the relentless mafia threats just as long as the author. 

If I'm being honest, I was hoping for a bit more of a 'true crime, investigative reporter deep dive, peeling back one shocking layer after another (we've all been conditioned by Netflix)- and altho missing a startling reveal, it's still a pretty outlandish and bizarre story and worth a read. 
...And if you're not up for the read, be sure to check out the Run, Hide, Repeat podcast

Ok team, we did it! 12 books in 12 months! What are we reading next?